Strictly speaking, an “illuminated” manuscript contains
gold or silver, which reflects the light. A manuscript richly
decorated in color only, without actually having gold or silver
is, technically, not illuminated. Members of the Cistercian Order
were permitted to ornament their manuscripts but not to illuminate
them, as gold was thought to be frivolous and inappropriate to
an austere way of life. Illumination with gold goes back into
antiquity but is especially
common in the later Middle Ages. Manuscripts such as Books
of Hours are almost always illuminated. If gold leaf is to
be applied to a design in a manuscript it is put on before the
paint. This is crucial for two reasons. The first is that gold
will adhere to any pigment that has already been laid, ruining
the design, and secondly the action of burnishing it is vigorous
and runs the risk of smudging any painting already around it.
There are
several methods of applying gold to manuscript pages and sometimes
more than one technique was used in a single miniature in order
to achieve different effects. There are three basic types of application
appropriate for books. Two methods use gold leaf, and one uses
powdered gold. In the first a design is brushed on in some kind
of wet glue and the gold leaf is laid on top and is burnished
when it is dry. In the second method a sticky gesso is prepared
and built up so that the design is really three-dimensional. When
the gold has been applied and polished with a burnishing tool
it looks extremely thick and the curving edges of the design catch
the light from many angles at once. The third method is to apply
what is called 'shell' gold, a powdered gold mixed with
gum arabic into a kind of gold ink (and commonly dispensed from
a sea shell like a mussel or oyster, hence the name) and applied
with pen or brush. Unlike leaf gold, it was added after the color.
Gold
leaf is not especially easy to use either. It is a property of
gold that, unlike many other metals, it can be hammered thinner
and thinner without ever crumbling away. A piece of gold leaf
is infinitely thinner than the thinnest paper. It is virtually
without thickness and has almost no weight. If dropped it hardly
seems to flutter downwards. If it settles on a hard surface ruffled
or folded it can be straightened out with a puff of breath, straightening
itself instantly like a shimmering shaken blanket.
The production
of gesso for raised gilding is not difficult, but takes time,
as it requires slaked plaster of Paris, which takes about a month
to prepare. It can also be dangerous, as white lead is used to
make the gesso hard enough to withstand vigorous burnishing without
crumbling. Beginning with slaked plaster of Paris, a little white
lead is ground in (less than a third of the amount of the plaster).
The mixture is very white and crumbly. Then a little Armenian
bole is added to supply color. When the gesso is eventually applied
to the white page the inclusion of a colored pigment will make
the mixture easier to see; and if the gold should ever wear off
in places, a pink-brown color underneath gives a more pleasing
and warmer glow than stark white. At this point, a dash or two
of sugar or some honey is added. These are hygroscopic
(has the property of attracting moisture) and it is important
that the concoction should remain damp as long as possible. The
substance can be dried into little pink pellets and stored like
this. When it is needed it is ground up and mixed with a little
clear water and glair, crunching the mixture over and over with
a palette knife until it is really smooth and runny, without bubbles.
Glair is made from the sticky liquid that forms overnight
at the bottom of a bowl of whipped egg whites. The froth is discarded,
leaving the liquid glair. A small amount of ear wax was often
added to the gesso to help eliminate air bubbles which could burst
after the gesso’s application to the parchment, creating
unsightly craters in an otherwise smooth gold surface.
Gesso is
applied with a quill pen, or a brush. Speed is important, as is
a lightness of touch so as not to scratch the parchment with the
nib. The liquid is puddled into the center of the part to be gilded
and then quite quickly drawn out carefully into the corners and
allowed to dry. Sometimes a blade is scraped gently over the dried
gesso to flatten it out and reduce any unevenness in the surface,
as when the gold is applied every flaw will appear to be magnified
under the shiny gold surface.
Damp weather,
or dank early mornings are good for applying gold leaf. A leaf
of gold is picked up on a thin flat brush called a gilder's
tip and can be allowed to fall onto the soft gilder's cushion
where it can be blown out flat and cut with a sharp knife into
strips or other simple shapes before being picked up again on
the brush. The illuminator breathes heavily onto the page, the
dampness of his breath making the gesso slightly tacky again,
and the gold leaf can be lowered into place, slightly overlapping
the edges of the gesso. As it nears the page the gold leaf seems
to jump into place. It is covered quickly with a piece of silk
and pushed quite firmly with the thumb. The illuminator then takes
up the burnishing tool; this was traditionally a dog's tooth mounted
on a handle, but more common today is the use of agate or hematite
burnishers. The tool is rubbed over and around the gold and into
the crevices at its edge, gently at first, and more vigorously
as the burnishing progresses. When the gesso has been well burnished,
a soft brush is used to remove any excess gold.